Grey Label is the more affordable manifestation, described as 'wardrobe essentials'- for Groover this means directional clothes 'comfortable enough for lounging around the house, stylish enough to wear for a night out'. It's based on her good old wardrobe favourites, but these are probably a million light-years more futuristic than yours- do you have a hoodie with five hoods in the bottom of your laundry basket? It's a standout unisex piece that was inspired by layering up hoods as a teenager to keep warm in New England. Yes, that's right- Groover's generous enough to design unisex pieces (it seems like such a dirty word right now) with an eye to designing menswear, and jewellery in the future.

But back to those influences- the collections, at first glance, remind you of something that you can't quite place your finger on. Then it all makes sense when you find out that the scalloped bibs, cuff sleeves and princess coats are inspired by the details and textures of old Betty Boop cartoons (apparently Groover shares a resemblance- in my mind, no bad thing, and obviously not to her either; she rightly identifies Boop, Little Lulu and Olive Oyl as being 'playful and stylish'), as well as a childhood collecting seashells- her armour-like hooded dresses are an attempt to mimic their architectural structure.
 
If she could design a look for anyone dead or alive, it would be Louise Brooks, Milla Jovovich (during the 5th element era), or London gallerist Maureen Paley, who she thinks has great style too. And Groover's always expressed herself creatively, whether it's been through art, performance or photography, it's just fashion that obsesses her at the moment. The sheer joy of 'experimenting with fabric on the body'. Is she being modest? We all know the power of Central Saint Martin's; but with the goods this good and her whole concept a satisfying whole it would make sense to keep an eye out for her. That, and make sure you too earmark black and white cartoons as a major look to channel come A/W 08.

Written by:
Elliott Sainsbury

Elliott always liked fashion since the sequin waistcoat in the dressing up box at primary school. He is Contributing Senior Fashion Writer for fashion156.com and taps a keyboard for other periodicals, more-than-periodic ally.

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