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Mary Katrantzou
A product of both Rhode Island School of Art and St Martins, the Greek born textile designer Mary Katrantzou, has graduated with a bang. Not only opening the St Martins graduate show but being nominated for the Harrods and the L'Oreal Proffesionnel Award, on top of which she won The Best Graduate at the London Fashion Awards. Similar parallels could be made with another Greek designer Sophia Kokosalaki who Mary has not only worked with for two seasons but also cites her as a designer she rates alongside others such as Christopher Kane, Prada, Lanvin. A theme which runs throughout those designers and what Mary implores in her work is a sense of 'Considering femininity and beauty for real life not just for the catwalk'. Being more of a print designer has allowed her not only to have a freelance career at Bill Blass, 'projects on the side are that bit more creative and only require someone freelance' whilst allowing her to 'build on my own distinct style, also it's financially important and creatively beneficial'. Her graduate collection references her Greek background but more in the literal sense of a classical structure as opposed to mythology, 'It's quite edgy in that London way but yet perfectly classical in the proportions and symmetry'. Her key inspiration was that of Russian Constructivism and some 70's references; which in turn resulted in a collection full of silk jersey on wool, an aim which she succeeded in was to 'make woven bonding quite functional'. The digital print of jewellery on the dresses and real pieces was very much in sync with the garments adding a stark and minimal finesse. Her collection's strength lies in her main aesthetic of letting someone's identity shine; something she wants from the wearer, 'their sense of energy and presence, a fashion conscious, which I view as more of a statement.' With a New Generation sponsorship behind her she will have a stand in the British Fashion Tents for Spring/Summer, when asked what are we to expect, she responded: 'Different fabrics but hopefully it will still remain me'.
Delilah Khomo
London Kicks 2008
All Clothes by Mary Katrantzou
Fashion Editor Molaroid
Photographer Sean Michael
Photography Assistant James Finnigan
Hair Kuni using L'Oreal
Makeup Rino using MAC
Model Charlotte Taylor
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