To the sound of bagpipes, belle de jour Agyness Deyn introduced 'Passio Fractions' - House of Holland's first solo on-schedule show - after an impatient wait from the international press, celebrities and their hangers-on. With a royal purple tee with HoH crest below a purple tartan jacket, her first steps were followed by a crested, knee length jersey dress with sporran slung over the shoulder. It soon became apparent that tartan and crests would be a reoccurring theme and so came multiplied crests emblazoned on everything including forest green velvet jackets and silk shirts. Acid toned skinny jeans teamed with rave colored fine knits and a tartan detailed trench coat set the labels move from the signature slogan that has long since saturated the scene.

In New York, Preen had climbed the Scottish Highlands to move away from their futuristic, structured dresses, opening with an oversized tartan coat sheepskin collar. Disappointingly on trend with boiler suits and slouchy silk trousers, they recovered by producing shearling jackets and lumberjack shirts in red tartan - as did Ralph Lauren and DKNY. The big apple has never been a city to create a trend, only follow, but the love affair with everything British (Lauren cleverly taking the old-school preppy look from the UK, reworking it, then giving it back re-glossed) will ensure tartan will be a sure fire hit with the yanks.

Vivienne Westwood's RED label return to London after eleven years was awash with political messages that, true to form, partly overshadowed the wear-ability off the collection. The labels signature tartan, notably in rich claret, covered wool-sack skirts, pussy-bow silk blouses, bloomers, shorts suits and cape-style jackets and sailor-chic made a slight return. Whilst tartan has long been synonymous with punks and skinheads since the 1960s, Westwood's return that co-insides with the trend proves her ever-lasting influence on the industry. Autumn will be the time to recapture the hearts and wallets of the fashion pack and those who shy away from the mainstream, taking the label back to its routs.

Over in Milan, the duo that always can, Dolce and Gabanna for D&G channeled the look into sleek fitted jackets, tartan tights and ruffled royal blue tartan dresses. Tossing the sexy look aside, Queen Elizabeth II and conservatism is the influence for this A/W 08-09. High waisted, mid calf length kilts and long-line tartan blazers dominated the first looks, with printed silks adopting the Jackie O look and Argyle sweaters in orange and chocolate brown recaptured the Highland chic of Her Maj. Will she buy into their highland dream? Still edgy and defiantly sexy, HRH may just stick to the hottest accessory of this season; the Barbour.

Written by:
charlie

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