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Although she's only on her third season, it's a good bet you'll have seen Maaike Mekking's subtly directional work already. Her A/W 08/09 collection, 'Sing Fight Cry Pray' takes its name from a Dutch folk song she remembers from her youth; amongst old-school glamorous Dietrich and Aubrey Beardsley-inspired silhouettes, there's elements of chaos snuck in with paint splatters and hand-dyed denim (topped off with conical leather and clown hats, naturally).
Her strategy is taking classic shapes, references and ideas about clothing and pushing them into ultra-modern, edgy but satisfying territory that's been featured everywhere from i-D to the Guardian. LK's own editor-in-chief, Molaroid, even picked up her first collection for a shoot last year.
So when he was deciding who to interview for the fashion pages, Maaike's name was one of the first on the list. Knowing that Maaike's a fan of the big smoke, her adopted home (she even features a London skyline on one of her S/S 08 dresses), I stepped to it and dropped her a line about her S/S 09 plans, favourite places to eat, shop and be merry and what tracks she spins in her parallel career as a DJ...
London Kicks: Tell us a little bit about your A/W 08/09, Sing Fight Cry Pray...
Maaike Mekking: For me this collection feels very tender, sophisticated and luxurious.
LK: Do you design with a customer in mind, and if so who is that person?
MM: Next to having many amazing female friends and getting inspired by them I always pose myself the question "would I wear this"? Being a female designer I like to try things on and test them out. I like how clothes can shape identities, as well as change these and how you can change the mood of the wearer. Thinking of "my customer" I like her to be strong yet soft, elegant yet tough with an urban edge. I want to dress all women! To name a few: Kirsten Dunst, Allison Mosshart, a band called Damenkappelle, Dandi Wind and Khima France (Kap Bambino).
LK: Which designers have inspired you, both in design and in the way they run their businesses?
MM: Bless, YSL, Alexander McQueen for his shows, Preen, Isabelle Marant and dame Westwood…
LK: Can you describe where you're headed for S/S 09 in a few words?
MM: Explosions, Royal Ballet, Your Boyfriend's shirt….
LK: The price points of the range are accessible without sacrificing a feel of luxury at the top end. Was this deliberate?
MM: I find it very important to give each garment the best quality as I strive to design items that will last longer than one season. The prices vary from affordable jersey items to the more pricey tailored items and couture dresses. At the moment I sell mainly in smaller boutiques where most of my jersey items are stocked. I'm waiting for Liberty to knock on my door, haha…All the designs are made in a limited edition so rest assured you buy exclusivity and quality to the max.
LK: Where else would you like to take the label?
MM: Many more shops all over the world and on-schedule at LFW.
LK: If you could dress one person from history, who would it be?
MM: Louise Brooks.
LK: You've talked in interviews about your love of London, including it on the skirt of an S/S 08 skyline dress. Where are your favourite places to shop, eat and relax in the city?
MM: Although I hardly have time to shop…I like hanging out with Cheech in no-one, also 172 Boutique on Brick Lane which are both shops where I sell at the moment. (I like to see how my stuff is going). Also the original Beyond retro on Cheshire street for some vintage gems and to visit my lovely friends The Broken Hearts. In town I love the Margiela shop, Kokon to Zai and Liberty for some decadence.
For food, all food-stalls and café La Bouche on Broadway Market on Saturday, Japanese food in Ten Ten Tei in Soho, white beer at the Prince George in Dalston, and a memorable dinner in Les Trois Garcons.
To relax I love cycling to Tate Modern, crossing the river, a view I can never get enough of. Other favourites include the Photographer's gallery, and White Cube gallery.
Reading books in coffee shops like the Old Shoreditch Station. Hanging around on Sundays, ending with the club Phone In Sick…And I do the old yoga whenever I have time.
LK: I've heard that you've been DJing too... What are your favourite tracks for getting the crowd dancing, when/where can we see you next?
MM: Aha, the word travels…I love playing stuff from labels like Playhouse, Mobilee and Kompakt. Next time up will be in the club I co-host with Alex Sedano and Minimal Mike called People On Horses, on 25th July in 333. Come and see!!!
Elliott James Sainsbury
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